WHITE HORSE TAVERN,

Historic Colonial buildings are a shilling a dozen around here, but as a tavern -- one of the earliest, pre-1673 -- the two-story red clapboard restaurant has an especially appealing atmosphere to recreate. Actually, the swaggering mayhem of an alehouse was more the original mood than the present aristocratic ambience. The first tavern had been a popular meeting and eating place for city councilmen and criminal court officials. The latter must have felt right at home here, accustomed to the outlaw element as they were, since the son of the original proprietor, William Mayes Jr., was a pirate. Coming back from Red Sea depredations with considerable booty, he returned to a Newport welcome that Dennis Connor would have envied. He eventually took over as the tavern keeper himself. In its current genteel incarnation, the White Horse Tavern is quite a contrast from its lusty origins. Seated in the upstairs dining area, I appreciated the way that the candlelit atmosphere is created. The only electric lighting was from faux candles, which glowed as delicately as the glass-shrouded candlesticks on the tables. To enhance the effect, the open-beam ceilings and walls were painted glossy white rather than flat, so that the candlelight reflected all around -- a magical touch. But, oh yes, the food. Wonderful, pricey (lunch is much less so), with eclectic selections that range all over the culinary map, as modern diners prefer.

Full review.